How to make preserved lemons

Stevie Parle recently pointed out that preserving was a great way to pass a rainy day. He’s so right. Actually, I preserved these beauties on a lovely day last October but now the weather is truly rotten it’s wonderful that they’re ready to play with. The jar is like a burst of sunshine in the kitchen.

I don’t do much pickling or preserving, although I occasionally make kimchi and quick-pickled vegetables. (In 2014 I aim to explore Diana Henry‘s luscious Salt Sugar Smoke: How to Preserve Fruit, Vegetables, Meat and Fish.) I was won over by this recipe for preserved lemons by US chef Philip Krajeck (Bon Appétit magazine) because it’s so flavoursome. Some preserved lemons are simply preserved in salt and aromatics - delicious but quite harsh and the lemons need to be used judiciously. The lovely salty-sweet brine in this recipe, however, renders the lemons more subtly salted and mouth-puckeringly moreish. At least I think so.

First work out how many lemons you want, or are able, to preserve; this might be dictated by the size of the heatproof jars you have available and how many lemons fit comfortably inside. Scrub the lemons, place them in a pan and cover with water. Boil until soft - about 10 minutes. Drain and reserve the cooking liquor, then plunge the lemons in iced water to halt the cooking process. For every 4 lemons you’re preserving, whisk together 165g caster sugar, 7 tablespoons sea salt flakes, 1 teaspoon crushed coriander seeds, 1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric, 1 clove and 750ml of the hot cooking liquor. Score each lemon lengthways four times, place in a jar (comfortably, not packed in) and cover with the brine by at least a few centimetres. Leave a couple of centimetres gap between the top of the liquid and the top of the jar to allow for the lemons to expand. Chill for 2 weeks before using. Krajeck suggests the lemons will be good for 1 month, chilled, but most recipes for lemons preserved in brine suggest they’re good for much longer than this (months and months in fact). I’ve certainly suffered no ill effects from using mine after 3 months.

Many people buy a jar of preserved lemons to use in one particular dish and then spend several months wondering what the heck to do with the rest before chucking them out. I say, don’t be afraid to experiment with them in both sweet and savoury dishes. Krajeck suggests whizzing the skins (mostly only the skins of preserved lemons are used in cooking) in a blender with some fresh lemon juice and olive oil to make a zingy condiment for fish. The skins are also often enjoyed as an accompaniment to tagines and stews made from chicken and rich meats. I’m looking forward to serving them this way soon with a slow-roasted leg of mutton. Diana Henry also proposes a tasty preserved lemon gremolata to go with scallops.

Because these preserved lemons are not overly salty, I was interested to try them in non-savoury recipes. I’m pleased to say they worked well. As you can see, they’re only used in small amounts but they give a subtle, slightly salted lemon depth of flavour. Just a tickle of saltiness, as my husband poetically said. If you are using shop-bought jars of preserved lemon please use your judgement as to how much to include.

Preserved lemon puddings (adapted from Bon Appetit)

Serves 4

• butter, for greasing
• 75g caster sugar plus 1 heaped tablespoon
• 2 large eggs, separated
• 20g plain flour
• 2 teaspoons cornflour
• 40ml lemon juice
• 1 heaped tablespoon preserved lemon peel, minced
• 150ml milk

Heat the oven 170°C/350°F. Butter 4 ramekins.

Beat together the 75g sugar, the egg yolks, flours, lemon juice and peel until well combined. Whisk in the milk.

Beat the egg whites until frothy and then gradually add the 1 heaped tablespoon sugar. Whisk until soft peaks form, then fold into the lemon mixture. Divide among the ramekins, place the ramekins in a roasting pan, and pour in enough boiling water to come a few centimetres up the sides. Cook for about 30 minutes, or until the tops are golden and springy to touch.

Serve immediately (before they collapse) with ice cream or cream.

Preserved lemon gimlet

Strictly speaking, this isn’t a gimlet but I’m calling it such as it does contain gin, lime juice and sugar syrup - and because I love the word gimlet so much. Say it: gimlet.

For each serving:

• 2 tablespoons caster sugar
• a shot of gin, to taste
• 1/4 preserved lemon
• 2 tablespoons lime juice
• 1 small handfulof mint leaves, plus sprigs of mint, to serve
• soda water, to taste

Place the sugar and 1 tablespoon of water per serve in a pan and cook, stirring, until dissolved. Set aside to cool. Add ice to glasses and pour over the gin. Muddle the lemon, mint, lime juice and syrup. Strain and pour over the gin and ice. Top with soda water and a sprig of mint to be fancy. You can of course leave out the gin - it’s still delicious.