How to make a picnic pie

I know. Lavish picnic preparations are often harbingers for lousy weather. But I believe it’s still worth making an effort when it comes to al fresco food. The sky might cloud over and chill winds might blow, but delicious things to eat can rescue any outdoor occasion. And picnic pies are perfect al fresco fare: yummy ingredients enveloped in flaky pastry that can be eaten warm or cold. They’re far tastier and lovelier than sandwiches but equally transportable, and not that difficult to make. Especially this one.

I’ve made lots of picnic pies over the years. Nigella does a delicious version (although she doesn’t really intend it for picnics) called Pizza Rustica. I once made this to the letter and although it was fabulous, it was quite a process to make and involved a long shopping list. I’ve also made muffuletta-style sandwiches by scooping out the insides of rustic loaves, filling them with tasty goodies, and popping the lids back on like Paul Hollywood does with his Picnic Loaf.

This picnic pie is based on a recipe by award-winning food writer Rose Prince. The genius of it is the layering of herby egg pancakes with the other ingredients, making this a really satisfying picnic feast. The recipe is from her book Kitchenella (also view it on her video); she sensibly goes the simple route, using ready-made puff pastry and an egg, ham and cheese filling.

By all means, use ready-made pastry without guilt, but I’ve included my recipe for a quick and easy pastry simply because I didn’t have any ready-made to hand. Also, because I’m a zealot for using leftovers at the moment, I added stray bits and bobs from the fridge: a few rashers of bacon, a chorizo cooking sausage, some different cheeses and even some leftover cooked bulgur wheat! Served up on a picnic blanket with a simple chopped salad, it was perfect outdoor food on a recent glorious sunny day.

Picnic Pie (based on a Rose Prince recipe from Kitchenella)

Serves 2-4

For the pastry

• 250g plain flour
• 125g cold butter
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 4 or more tablespoons ice-cold water

For the filling

• 4 eggs
• a general handful of finely chopped herbs like parsley, dill, basil, chives
• a knob or 2 of butter
• sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper
• slices of ham, cooked bacon, chorizo, prosciutto, mortadella
• grated or crumbled cheese like cheddar, mozzarella, parmesan, provolone
• cooked leftover grains or pasta
• vegetables like onions, courgettes or peppers (tomatoes are a bit too wet)

For the pastry, place the flour in a large mixing bowl and grate in the butter (hold the end of the butter with a piece of foil to prevent it melting). Using a palette or butter knife, cut the butter into the flour until completely combined and the mixture resembles large breadcrumbs. Gradually add the water, cutting it in with the knife, until the mixture comes together into a dough. Tip onto a lightly floured work surface, quickly shape into a disc, then wrap in greaseproof paper and chill for 30 minutes to 1 hour.

While the dough is resting, make your egg pancakes. Whisk 3 of the eggs together with the herbs, and season well with salt and pepper. Heat a small frying pan - mine has a base diameter of 17cm but a little smaller or larger won’t matter. Pour in a very thin layer of the egg mixture, swirling it around the base to cover completely. Cook for a minute or so, then flip and cook the other side. Repeat with the rest of the mixture - you should make about 4 pancakes. Set aside, then cook up any other of the ingredients: dice the vegetables and sauté until tender, or fry off bacon and chorizo.

When the dough has rested, set the oven to 200C/ 390F/gas mark 6. Divide the dough in half, pop one piece back in the fridge, and roll the other piece into a disc large enough to accommodate the egg pancake leaving a 4cm border all the way around. Place on a piece of baking paper, then start layering your ingredients. Start with a pancake, then add layers of meat, vegetables, cheese and so on. Repeat the layering until the pancakes are used up. Be generous - the ingredients will sink a bit as they cook down - but you’re not looking for a picnic tower here! Roll out the other half of dough so that it will comfortably cover your filling and hang down over the bottom piece of pastry. Press the pastry edges together and then roll them up so that you have a snug pie. Make a slit in the top with a sharp knife and shape a little flower around the slit if you have any dough trimming. Brush with the beaten egg.

Slide the pie on its baking paper onto a baking sheet. Lightly beat the remaining egg. Lightly brush the pie all over with the beaten egg and bake for about 25 minutes, until golden. Enjoy warm or cold in slices.